Energy Saving Pumps

Pond pumps, pool pumps, water feature pumps, marine aquarium pumps, solar pumps, and spa pumps operating costs are all being revolutionized with the new Energy Saving Pumps! The pump with a gas pedal! This adjustable horse power system has been proven by industry and power companies to save a lot of money. Order now and save 35%!

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How To Choose Comparing Pumps

Pond pumps, pool pumps, water feature pumps, marine aquarium pumps, spa pumps, solar pumps, and industrial process pumps should all use the super energy efficient adjustable horsepower Energy $aver Pumps® -- The name says it all. Save half (50%) or more of your operating expenses.  

Maximize your savings with our innovative dial that adjusts the horsepower, wattage, flow rates, RPM, and  pump head to exactly what your system needs. Would you buy a car without a gas pedal? Why buy a pump without one? Flow rates go up to 10,000 GPM (600,000 GPH) at up to 100 feet of pump head!

1 HP        0-2.6 amps*

3 HP         0-6.8 amps*

 

We have the most efficient motors in the industry! We have the only motors that you can tune to the exact horsepower you need or want.

  • You see the results of the dial changes in the water flow in your pond, and the money in your wallet. Savings can be $15,000 or more over the life of the Energy Saving Pump®; which are available in all horsepower's. The Creech Pump Index (the GPM x Pump head / watts) CPI = 3.0 shows how much more efficient this pump system is compared to standard pumps that usually have a CPI of 0.1 to 1.5. The higher the CPI the lower are your operating costs.

This dial adjustment in a solid-state electronic controller, allows you to change your horsepower, and compensate for any pump head requirement, so it gives you greater latitude in pump selection. In other words, one pump will fit your system perfectly.

Make money while you sleep! Turn your pump down, while still providing good aeration and filtration.

  1. If you had a choice between buying a pump for $100 that would cost you $1,000 a year to operate, versus a pump that would cost you $1,000 to buy, but would only cost $100 a year to operate, which would you buy? Would both pumps cost you a total of $1,100 the first year? How about after the 1st year?
  2. Do you want to add a new water feature or expand your pond, but you won't have enough horsepower to run it? Do you have a dial you could simply turn up?
  3. Do you know anyone who has bought a pump that doesn’t have enough horsepower to do the job they want? So they had to use 2 or 3 pumps with double or triple the amps; 1 for the filter, 1 for the waterfall, etc.?
  4. Is your pump’s horsepower too low or too high? 
  5. Do you have a pump with more horsepower than you need? If you have too much horsepower, then you are wasting amps and money, and could actually damage your equipment.
  6. If you pump is undersized its life can be considerably shortened. We wish we had $1 for every 1/8 or 1/4 HP pump sitting in ponds that require much larger pumps. By the way, the Energy Saving Pump® when dialed down to 1/4 HP only draws 2.2 amps at 115 volts; 1.1 amps at 1/8 HP and 115 volts. 

    However, some comparisons between the more efficient Energy Saving Pump set at 1/4 HP vs other 1/4 HP pumps ignore some very important facts. Namely, that the owner of a fixed 1/4 HP pump is stuck at 1/4 HP winter or summer, day or night, big party or away on vacation, while the owner of a Energy Saving Pump can dial it down to 1/5, 1/6, 1/7, 1/8 and realize even greater savings, especially during the winter. On the other hand, if they're having a party they can turn the pump up to 1/3, 1/2, 3/4 or more HP for a very short period of time to wow their guests.

    One thing is absolutely true: No other pumps are as efficient as the Energy Saving Pumps!

     

  7. Do you have to buy a new "cheapie" pump every year? How much does that cost over 10 years?

Remember:

    • The 1st commandment of pond water pumps is amps (amperage) equals money down the drain!
      • Higher amps means more money down the drain,
      • Lower amps means saving more money.
      • Amps x $150 = the cost per year per amp (at a kilowatt-hour cost of $0.15) to run a pump. (California will soon be at $300/amp for the highest tier rate).

      • Amps x $750 = the cost per 5 years per amp to run a pump.
      • Amps x $1,500 = the cost per 10 years per amp (the typical life of a motor).
    • The 2nd commandment is if you are not using a Energy Saving Pump™ you may be spending 5 to 10 times more money than you need to!
      • With a Energy Saving Pump® you dial your savings.
    • If you can save $ thousands of dollars per year by switching to a Energy Saving Pump®, when would be the best time to get one? 

If you only know the wattage of your pump, divide the watts by the 115 voltage to get the amps, i.e., if your pump has 1,150 watts, then 1,150/115 = 10 amps. This Brand Z pump would cost you $15,000 to operate over a 10 year lifetime; in Hawaii where the electricity costs $0.20 per kilowatt-hour it would cost you $20,000; In California the new rates would cost you $30,000 with the Brand Z pump. You could save 90% of this with a Energy Saving Pump®.

Most motors have an efficiency of about 60%; the motors in the Energy Saving Pump® design series are typically 85% and higher. How can they be so high? They simply use a better, but more expensive pump-controller-motor design. This together with the dial controller reduces the amps required by 70% or more.

There are 2 ways the Energy Saving Pump® design saves you money:

    • 1st - they use specially constructed super premium efficiency motors. While many motors have an efficiency of 40 - 60%, the Energy Saving Pump® super premium efficiency motors typically have an efficiency of 85% or better. That is one source of the savings; and yields a savings of up to 30%.
    • 2nd - you electronically change the speed of the motor when you adjust the speed-control dial of the control unit. The power input requirements vary with the cube of the speed change. So a 10% reduction in speed to 90% dial setting, requires only 73% (.90 x .90 x .90) of the power input, which results in a 27% savings in energy input, i.e., amps. 
      • A 20% reduction in speed to 80%dial setting, results in a 51% reduction of the power input; yielding a savings of 49% in the amps required.
    • These 2 energy saving sources can result in savings of 70% or more, with the speed adjustment providing even more savings than the increase in the motor efficiency.
      • You can save a lot of money without sacrificing any performance.
    • There is even a 3rd potential savings source although we do not count it here. Some power companies will give you a rebate for installing a premium efficiency adjustable-horsepower motor. Since 2/3rds of the electricity consumed in the USA is to run motors, if everyone switched to Energy Saving Pumps® they wouldn't need to build as many new power plants, and carbon dioxide emissions would be reduced.
      • New Jersey has a program that will rebate $50 per horsepower for this type of system.
      • Oregon has one that will offer 5% interest loans to purchase such a system.
      • Colorado has a program called "Bid 2001" that offers a rebate of $300 per kilowatt-hour saved.
      • These motors meet or exceed the new rebate levels established by the Consortium for Energy Efficiency.
      • This system has been proven by industry and power companies to save a lot of money.

Consider the hidden operating costs, when deciding the best pump for your pond.

    Before the introduction of the adjustable horsepower Energy Saving Pumps®, pond water pumps have been the most difficult part of pond design, especially for amateurs building their first pond. Sump pumps are often their first choice because they are cheap, but they are very inefficient, and are not built for 24 hour per day, 7 day per week, and 365 day per year operation, year in and year out. Also many of them are oil-filled and will leak oil that can kill your fish if, or when, the oil-seal goes bad. If your motor goes out, what do your fish do while you wait to get it repaired, or replaced?

    When you move up to a real pond pump, vendors will ask you what flow you need, and at what pump head? Will you need a self-priming pump, if so for what pump head? Will the pump be above or below the water surface? Then they will show you Performance Curves that plot the flow versus the pump head for different horsepower's. 

    Then, in order to calculate your system's pump head you will not only need to know the water-flow, but also the length of your pipe from the pond to the pump, the pipe diameters, the number of elbows, tees, valves, and the pump head of your filter, Ultraviolet unit, heater, and then the length of the pipe back into the pond, as well as the height of any water features. See the section on calculating Total Dynamic Head and the Creech Pump Index.

One of the services that we provide to help you choose the right pump is to help you calculate your pump head. However, in order for us to do that you need to describe your pond's plumbing system to us:

  1. What is the size of your pond in gallons?
  2. How often do you want to turn it over, or what flow rate do you want?
  3. What are the diameters of your pipes?
  4. Do you have a bottom drain, if so how many?
  5. Do you have a skimmer, if so how many?
  6. How are they plumbed to the pump?
  7. Do you have a filter, if so what size and what kind?
  8. Do you have a UV unit, if so what size or how many tubes or how many watts?
  9. Do you have a heater?
  10. How long is your suction-pipe run from the pond to your pump? How many pipes?
  11. How long is your discharge-pipe run from the pump back to your pond? How many pipes?
  12. What is the total vertical height from the surface of your pond to the top of the inlet back into your pond?
  13. Does your inlet simply flow into the pond or does it go through restricted jets?
  14. Do you have a fountain, if so how high?
  15. What is the diameter of the fountain's internal piping?
  16. How many valves does your system have in both the suction and discharge line?
  17. How many check valves does your system have?
  18. How many 90° elbows are in both the suction and discharge line?
  19. How many 45° elbows are in both the suction and discharge line?
  20. How many T's are in both the suction and discharge line?
  21. What do you dislike about your current pump?
  22. How much do you pay per kilo-watt hour (kwh) of electricity?

 

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Energy Saving Pumps Order Form Pricing Programmable Remote Control Pumps Savings Other Websites 1 HP 3 HP 5 HP 10 HP 15 HP 20 HP 30 HP 50 HP 100 HP Money Savings Environmental Pump Questions Solar Panels Fountains Waterfalls Press Release Brochure Pond Pump Design Industrial Pumps Power Plus Pumps Best Pond Pumps All Other Pumps Become a Dealer Keyword Search Product Index

Order now and save 35%! Flow rates up to 10,000 gpm at 100 feet of head!

e-mail: EnergySavingPumps@ymail.com

         

  Sales: 303-883-8000

Energy Saving Pumps™

 Postal address: 5082 E. Hampden Ave, Suite #138 
Denver, Colorado  80222     USA

Florida Branch: 3959 Van Dyke Rd, Suite #243

Lutz, Florida  33558    USA

 

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